by Richard Harvey
Abandoning a fascination, nay, an obsession with Burgundy is nigh impossible. A rocky relationship with this precious area has become increasingly tenuous due to the most unseemly question of money. Luckily, there are solid bridges that span this treacherous rift and can help us maintain and cherish our connection to accessibly-priced, high-quality Burgundy wine of both colours. One bridge is the area of southern Burgundy surrounding the town of Mâcon.
The Mâconnais has been unjustly forgotten by the lovers of the white wines of the Côte d’Or, although in recent years, famous names of the north such as Dominique Lafon and Domaine Leflaive have purchased land in the Mâconnais, analogous to the fatuity that European explorers from the 15th century “discovered” the “New World”. There were many well-established and proven estates in this Burgundian region before the northern Burgundians started to become more intimate with, appreciative of, and financially involved.
Pouilly-Fuissé is the star appellation, yes, but it’s time for Mâcon-Villages to step out of the shadows. These wines not only merit, but demand a good look as northern Burgundy wines soar to luxury prices. A case in point is Domaine Guillot-Broux. Located in Cruzille, one of many lovely, castellated villages of the Mâconnais, Emmanuel Guillot and his brother, Patrice, manage an estate that has been farmed organically since 1956! Emmanuel is very well-travelled, having worked in the UK as a sommelier, and now comfortably back in his persona as a proper, mud-on-the-boots Burgundian vigneron. He is well aware of the global world of wine and remains justifiably proud of the history and quality of the wines of his region. He is also unusual in being portrayed in a graphic novel about his (real life) search for an elusive “lost” vineyard in Burgundy.
The ancient abbey of Cluny is located in the Mâconnais region and Domaine Guillot-Broux has discovered and recovered vineyards farmed by monks centuries ago. Although later abandoned and lost in forests, the prized nature of these vineyards is evidenced by the hand-built stone walls surrounding them. These Clos may not have the renown of those of the Côte d’Or, but this is partly due to their being lost in time. Historical grape farmers knew where the vine could excel and did not piss away this sort of labour on just any vineyard!
The soils here are the classic Burgundian clay and limestone, so not surprisingly there is the potential of producing not only great white wines, but also wonderful expressions of Pinot Noir (more on this in a future instalment: Mâcon - Version Rouge). But revenons à nos moutons (let’s get back on track)...
Among Guillot-Broux’s many excellent vineyard sites, Les Geniévrières produces compelling wine of both colours. The 2017 white is fine-boned, but still with some of the expected richness of this southerly area. It is both fermented and aged in oak barrels, but with a sensitivity oriented towards retaining the fresh fruit of the grape. Barrels that have previously contained upwards of 5 wines are no longer flavour-imparting but rather flavour-enabling and enhancing vessels—exactly what is desired to engender a wine of both power and subtlety.
Additionally from this region and familiar to long-term Metrovinians is Château de Beauregard and its owner, Frédéric Burrier. Based in the very heart of the appellation of Pouilly-Fuissé, the Burrier family has also acquired the stunning Domaine de la Rochette, only a few kilometres north of this well-known zone, nestled in the depths of the Mâconnais. The key village here is Milly-Lamartine and the vineyards located on the slopes of the Montagne de Cra are its pride and joy.
The limestone soils here (cra=craie=chalk) reflect the whole Burgundian ethos of stony, vibrant wines with great elegance and energy. Milly-Lamartine is another example (like Cruzille) of overlooked wines punching well above their weight in their price/quality ratio.
There will be precious little of the 2021 Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine “Montagne de Cra” from Domaine de la Rochette…sorry! The 2021 harvest made sprightly and stimulating wines, but yields were tiny, so run, do not stroll, when the 2021 shows up.
Friends! It is time to wake up and taste the Mâconnais! Wines that were previously unfairly and ignorantly relegated to a place of obscurity should now be appreciated for what they always have been: Burgundy’s best access to noble white wines of the Chardonnay grape at accessible prices.
