By Al Drinkle
It took me a long time to realise it… And once I realised it, it took me a long time to care because I knew that despite having the truth on our side, the subsequent battle wouldn’t be an easy one. But eventually, following repeated exposure, I had to acknowledge an incontestable fact which I'm now going to share with you.
Germany is making some of the most exciting Sauvignon Blanc in the world… maybe even the most exciting. If you're the kind of person who considers “exciting” Sauvignon Blanc to be oxymoronic, then all the more reason for you to try a good German example.
When I'm abiding my heavy tasting schedule in Germany, I'm primarily seeking Riesling. Over the years I've become additionally and increasingly enthralled by Spätburgunder and Weissburgunder, and eventually some undeniably superlative bubbly has snuck its way into my heart (and, frequently, my mouth). Despite these priorities, each year I'd be sitting in various tasting rooms in German wine country and without prompt, a grower would place a sample of their Sauvignon Blanc in front of me. I'd often concede, internally if not vocally, that the grower in question had crafted an exceptionally fine wine from this grape — and yet I still didn't care! After all, Metrovino was already well-supplied by myriad “Savvy B” specialists from elsewhere.
Ultimately, it was during the 50 weeks each year in between trips to Germany that my understanding was catalysed. I began to pay much closer attention to Sauvignon Blanc wines from elsewhere, and in doing so realised how competitive and frequently superior many of the German versions actually are. Eventually, I had to admit that given our dedication to quality, we at Metrovino could no longer reasonably ignore German Sauvignon Blanc…
But it would have to be better than good — ours couldn't just be a lateral move for our customers based on novelty. If we were to introduce Alberta to a German Sauvignon Blanc, it would have to be absolutely and unyieldingly awesome. So utilising their throwback “Dr. Deinhard” label, we initiated a project with our friends at Von Winning in the Pfalz region (which is the northern extension of France's Alsace) to come up with the perfect wine. They nailed it!
Fermented and aged entirely in steel, it's got the precise minerality of a great example from the Loire Valley but with the resinous herbality of a compelling Jurançon. It's highly aromatic, but less overtly pungent than what you'd expect from New Zealand. It's more nimble than the best from Styria and flirts with California tropicality without betraying its compellingly citric side. Underlying all this is an appetising spine of mouthwatering vibrancy that is the hallmark of all great German wine. Don't you even dare ask if it's sweet! (It's not).
Since this is a special bottling just for us, we also had the opportunity to provide it with a moniker and we named it exactly what it is — “Sauvignon Blanc LAMF”! Tasting is believing, so we urge you to check it out, either by procuring a bottle from us or by enjoying it in tandem with brilliant food at Model Milk, Orchard or Bar Gigi.
