by Richard Harvey
The rocky heights of the village of Saint-Jean de Minervois in France’s Languedoc indeed regularly produces grapes each year, subject to the universal vagaries of Mother Nature. In St. J de M, the celebrity grape (historically) here is the Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, or just Muscat for short. Gorgeous, floral, exotically-scented sweet wines are synonymous with the village, but in this remote hamlet, more strange and wonderful things are to be found.
Our story starts with local Languedoc lass, Nicole, meeting her future husband, a boy-from-not-so-next-door, John, of Louisville, Kentucky. In 1996 (auspiciously, the same year Metrovino was born) they founded Clos du Gravillas. A minuscule winery to start, a place where fermentation vats bore names of authors like “Tolstoy” and “Hemingway”. The Minervois region in general is not constrained to being a one-trick-pony and Gravillas makes a beautiful array of wines in addition to their lovely sweet Muscat. We are, after all, in the highly regarded Minervois region of the Languedoc. If that doesn’t scream lovely red wine to you, we need to talk…
Farmed as a certified organic property, winery duties are well arranged between Nicole and John, but like all true vignerons and vigneronnes, the enormous amount of time spent year round in the vineyards is both the hardest and yet the most inspiring part of the job. The same welcome cool breeze blowing on a hot day during harvest will be the razor-sharp chill of a February day when you crouch down and prune a dormant vine in preparation for the next vintage. Over, and over, hour after hour, the same sculpting by frozen hands goes on for vine after ancient vine. A fire in the hearth and hot coffee are sometimes more necessary than a glass of wine when you get back indoors. The vista of the bone-white limestone rocks in the vineyard is also the inspiration for the repeated appearance of a crescent moon on Gravillas’ labels: it is not a flight of florid prose that describes the zone as looking a bit lunar. Tractors with tires fare less well on this rock-garden than a caterpillar-style beast.
It was indeed the red Carignan wine that brought Clos du Gravillas and Metrovino together. Over the years, so many beautiful interpretations of this grape have fuelled our lust for the quintessential Languedoc red. Gravillas is one of the Carignan Renaissance pioneers (along with our Carignanist Jean-Marie Rimbert) that have celebrated this grape for many years. A grape once known as “Le Mal Aimé” (the unloved) has cunningly morphed into “L’Insoumis” (The untamed). A more accurate development of nomenclature, I can’t imagine.
But Muscat is also a most versatile grape, and one that John and Nicole put through its paces. We now offer their orange wine “Fleur de Peau”, and the vivacious “Jour de Teuf” pét-nat, both Muscat in different costumes. The destiny of Muscat, while still making delicious sweeties, is perhaps more fully shown in these skin-contact and fizzy interpretations.
It’s hard to overstate the integrity, character and quality of the wines (and people!) of Clos du Gravillas. The intent and talent of Nicole and John are focussed on an unbridled quest to give voice to the rocks and gnarly, ancient vines of the windswept plateau of St. Jean. Articulate wines they are, speaking abundantly of grape, climate, soil, tradition and sheer human effort. It is hard to think of more pure and untrammelled examples of the fine dynamic tension between farmers and nature. No claim to some label like “natural” is spoken of here, yet I will defy anyone to show me that these wines are anything but a taste of genuine, honest, real wine. There’s more “walk” than just “talk” in the wines of Clos du Gravillas.
Here’s the roll-call of Clos du Gravillas wines which we are proud to offer as their exclusive Alberta representative:
White:
Retour aux Origines 2019 | $39
John & Nicole have scored big, finding and securing some old vine plantings of… old, indigenous grapes! Piquepoul Gris, Carignan Blanc and Terret; bring hither the pan-seared scallops, and let us dine!
Orange:
Fleur de Peau | $39
Orange wine that charms, pleases and caresses, helping you to avoid the shit that your friends say you “must” try ‘cause orange wine is “all good”…
Pét- Nat fizz:
Jour de Teuf 2019 | $33
Irresistible Jacques Tati fun expressed in Parisian slang: Jour de Teuf = Jour de Fête. This fizzy Muscat is uninhibited joy with an innuendo of sweetness... get it in ya’! Watch Jacques Tati’s “Mon Oncle” as you become one with the universe of your couch.
Red:
Sous les Cailloux des Grillons 2019 | $27
A true field blend, and don’t worry your pretty head about what’s in there (we can tell you if you need to know). “Under the Cricket’s Rock” is one translation of the name of this perennial favourite. They sold us 40 cases this year! A record! But it won’t be here long as the Crickets has quite the following...
Sur la Lune 2018 | $33
Which is the front/back label? Who cares?!? This Carignan/Syrah blend that will quickly make you forget that question and instead ask why it doesn’t come in a magnum.
Côté Obscur 2018 | $30
Pink Floyd flashback? The “Dark Side” offers a Carignan plus Cabernet Sauvignon blend (the latter grown at 500m attitude, so aromatic rather than being pushy and rich). Carignan still rules here!
Lo Vièlh Carignan 2016 | $38
Please remove your hats (in respect) ,and be prepared to toss them in the air! These vines (now hitting nearly 110 years old) are the PROOF that Carignan is a grape variety that kicks ass in the most elegant fashion and with pleasure-button-pushing propensity. Lovingly known as the Ol’ Fella” (Lo Vièlh). Respect!
The Sweetie:
Muscat de St. Jean de Minervois 2015 (500ml) | $24
You NEED this wine - no seriously, you NEED this wine with the local strawberries now coming on. No further explanation offered, none needed once you’ve made the shortcake, added the strawberries and introduced these lovers to each other.
