The Champagne town of Épernay just reeks of money (not an exclusively French fragrance), with seemingly endless palatial buildings lining the Avenue de Champagne. Up front ; fabulously decorated and opulent reception rooms- very haute couture. In some cases (Moet et Chandon) Versailles-style gardens top off the outside opulence. But in most cases, there hides behind some of the facades winery facilities capable of handling millions of litres of juice that might be destined to fill sporting cups or as a shower for champion Formula One drivers. There are frequently “camions-citernes” (tanker trucks) posed like a supermodel in front of some of these elegant facades. Not when the millionaires are expected, I suppose.
Terroir is a Benevolent Phantom
Terroir is a lovely French word that can be applied to wine, cheese, honey and other natural products when they demonstrate what wine-writer Matt Kramer aptly refers to as “a sense of somewhereness.” It should encompass a multiplicity of influencing factors of the product’s origin, even if when regarding wine it’s often exclusively if erroneously in reference to soil type.